Up the Mississippi, New Orleans to St. Louis

I flew down to New Orleans and drove up the bottom half of the Mississippi River with college buddy Aaron Draplin. Some beautiful and mystifying territory.

Click on any photo to see an enlarged version.

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Sat, Oct 16, 2004
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Flying out of Chicago, looking east towards downtown Flying out of Chicago, looking east towards downtown View southeast over Lake Ponchartrain, north of New Orleans
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River leading to New Orleans near Lake Poncha Aerial view over Lake Ponchartrain towards downtown New Orleans Was welcomed at the airport by an animated aligator, chomping towards the words "WELCOME TO NEW ORLEANS"
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Driving along highway 61 from airport to downtown New Orleans Driving along highway 61 from airport to downtown New Orleans. First of many "boiled crustacean" type offerings. Texas Motel, Hwy 61
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London Lodge, Hwy 61 Crystal Preserves sign, New Orleans Nondescript "modern" office facade in twilight
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We'd just missed some accident where a car plowed through a median traffic light sign. Welcome! Capri Motel, downtown New Orleans Towering administration-type building downtown
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Pere Marquette Parking neon sign, downtown NO Beautiful colors on building across from our parking ramp The sign for our parking ramp with nice reflection
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Closeup of that Park Here sign We joined the yahoos on Bourbon St. for a few blocks, just to make sure nothing had changed. It hadn't, the goddamn puke smell was still all over. World Famous Love Acts, Bourbon St.
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Live Sex Show signage, Bourbon St. Big Daddy's Bottomless/Topless, Bourbon St. The Steak Pit, Bourbon St.
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Some schlockery selling goddamn feather boas and shitty necklaces, Bourbon St. Corner building with balcony, Bourbon St. Shot (north) down a sidestreet, French Quarter
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Random dwelling, French Quarter Another random dwelling, French Quarter. Lots of shutters and mystery here. River Parish Disposal has an excellent identity system. They say "Parish" instead of "County" or "Borough" in parts of the South.
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Lots of cops in New Orleans ride ugly Piaggio Beverly (I think) scooters. Good idea, retarded-looking choice. Posters for blues singers Outstanding visual display of neon at old-timey Walgreens on Canal St. Too bad the photo was blurry, it was really something to behold.
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Prescriptions sign at aforementioned Walgreens. Lenny's Piccadilly Lounge, just off Canal St. Open signage for Tandoori Chicken. It sure lured us in...
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Our vegetarian sampler meal at Tandoori Chicken, overlooking Canal St. The view from our 2nd story table. Canal reminded me a LOT of NYC, lots of activity, crowds, merchants hawking goods on the sidewalk, people dancing for fuck's sake! Great town, I love the mix and the energy. Tandoori Chicken sign. This place was up some stairs and down a hallway, pretty suspicious, but it was worth it. Hidden treasure kinda deal.
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More of the same, in brilliant fluorescent color. E.J. Caire & Co., random shack driving at night outside of New Orleans. Probably Hwy 61. View over one of many bridges towards some kind of oil refinery. It was a novelty at first.
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Gonzales Motel, Gonzales. 2/3rds of the way to Baton Rouge and we'd barely seen anything resembling bayou swamp, short of a quick glimpse after a wrong turn onto Interstate 10 around exit 195. Didn't stay here, no Vacancy or Internet or something. We DID stay at this masterpiece, the signage of which unfolds over the next few photos. Exterior office shot, Royal Motel, Prairievile, LA. This gem was nestled behind a stripper club called "Suthern Kumfort's." The clerk was a cute little asian woman, she even showed us the room when Draplin asked to see it.
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Open/Closed sign, as lit from reverse. Nice. Royal Motel sign, side 1. When we rolled in, we saw a surly looking workingman type guy standing outside near his open door, he was balding and heavyset, moustachioed, looking sweaty and unruly... Royal Motel sign, side 2. Despite 90% of the hotel being vacant, the cutie woman from the office put us right next door to Shirtless Pete, who left us in peace without incident all night, thankfully.
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Suthern Kumfort's (sic), the illiterate strip club in front of our hotel. I didn't go in, but walked over to scope it out. Real high-class. $4 cover, 2-drink minimum. Aaron and I were in luck; it was couples night in the "Kumfort Zone." Sign of warning at Royal, in no uncertain terms.



Last updated: 10/27/04